A to Z Jewelry Designer

A to Z Jewelry Designer & Marks Directory

 

Collecting costume jewelry has quickly become one of the fastest-growing fashion statements to hit the planet.  Not only is it purchased to add to a collection it is purchased to wear. The shear beauty of vintage costume jewelry is unsurpassed by current market fashion jewelry.   We hope this new section will improve your knowledge on costume jewelry designers of the past and present, and assist you in identifying and dating your costume jewelry.

A

R. Accessocraft

  • In 1930 founded by Edgar Rodelheimer and Theodore Steinman
  • Their designs were unusual and gothic in style
  • During the 1960s they were very because they had the Art Deco look of the 1920s and 1930s
  • Ceased operating in 1998 align=justify>
  • Marks
  • Accessocraft in 1940s
  • Plastigold in 1940s
  • Feathergold since 1945

R. Albion

  • Albion Jewelers, Chicago, IL began operations in 1955
  • Marks
  • A Albion
  • Contessa
  • Not all jewelry marked.

R. Anderson, David

  • In 1876 he founded his workshop in Oslo, Norway
  • Generations of skilled craftsmen, have bless the market with exquisite enamel jewelry
  • Still made today
  • Marks
  • D-A NORWAY STERLING
  • DAVID ANDERSEN NORWAY STERLING 925S

Avon

  • In 1886 Avon was founded by D.H. McConnell, Sr
  • In 1920 Introduced the Avon jewelry line to the California Perfume Company
  • In 1930 changed its name to Avon Products Inc
  • Quality was comparable to Coro and other fine names
  • Avon did not manufacture its own jewelry
  • Marks
  • AVON

B

R. Blackinton

  • Began operating in 1862
  • Specialized in sterling silver and some 14k gold novelties and jewelry
  • A block letter R, B with the horizontal sword with hilt on the left, Co. each in an individual octagon represent R. Blackington & Co.
  • The original trademark, the block B with sword only not surrounded by R and Co., was used until c. 1900
  • In 1967 purchased by Wells, Inc.
  • In 1978 it was liquidated

Bogoff

  • In 1908 Henry Bogoff emigrated from Warsaw Poland
  • In 1946 he started Bogoff Company in Chicago
  • During the 1940s and 1950s Jewels by Bogoff, Spear Novely Co created lovely quality pieces in heavy rhodium and hand set stone, with the look of fine jewelry.
  • Ceased operations in the 1970s
  • Marks
  • Jewels of Bogoff
  • Bogoff

Boucher

  • Born in France he trained as an apprentice to Cartier in France
  • In the early 1930s Boucher designed jewelry for Mazer Bros
  • In 1937 Boucher established his own company called Marcel Boucher and Cie Company producing creative imaginative designs in metal
  • In 1965 Marcel Boucher died
  • His wife Sandra Boucher ran the company until 1972
  • In 1972 Marcel Boucher and Cie Co became a subsidiary of Dovorn Industries, a watch manufacturer
  • Marks
  • Boucher jewelry is usually signed and carries an inventory number
  • Marboux is an early mark
  • MB in a cartouche is also an earlier mark
  • Marcel Boucher
  • Boucher
  • SB Sterling from 1942 to 1944
  • Phrygian Cap – registered in 1944 used till 1949
  • Boucher – 1950 to 1955
  • Boucher © – 1955 to 1971

C

C&H

  • Began operations in 1898 as C& H Co = Chapin and Hollister Company, in Providence RI by William P. Chapin and Frederick R. Hollister and incorporated the same year
  • Manufacturers of fine rolled plate, gold, silver and gold-filled knives and jewelry
  • Last info on operations was found was 1922

Hattie Carnegie

  • Her early jewelry dates to around 1918 and was designed to complement her clothing
  • In 1956 after Carnegie’s death company was sold to Larry Josephs
  • In 1970s it ceased operations
  • Marks
  • Hattie Carnegie
  • Carnegie
  • HC within a diamond, inside a semi-oval was used less frequently
  • Pooped Pussy Cat used on hair ornaments and cases
  • Pooped Poodle used on hair ornaments and cases

Carolee

  • Began operations in 1972
  • Began as a kitchen hobby enterprise eventually employing over 300 people
  • Now internationally recognized
  • Marks
  • Dutchess of Windsor
  • CAROLEE with copyright symbol
  • Carolee Friedlander supports Breast Cancer Research

Ciner

  • Originally manufactured fine jewelry
  • In 1931 began manufacturing costume jewelry
  • Currently still in business
  • Marks
  • CINER after 1945
  • Not known if all Ciner jewelry was marked

Cini

  • As a young man Guglielmo Cini trained in Florence, Italy
  • 1922 Immigrated to the United States and he established a workshop in Boston
  • 1957 he relocated to Laguna Beach CA
  • His designs in sterling and gold-plated silver are rich in European tradition
  • 1950s and 1960s Cini included faceted colored rhinestones in his compositions
  • In 1979 Cini died
  • Company continued operating under the direction of designer Felipe Mendosa
  • Still in operation
  • Marks
  • Guglielmo Sterling in a rectangle box – 1920s to present
  • STERLING BY CINI with a copyright symbol in a rectangle box
  • Sterling Cini with a copyright symbol

Claudette

  • The trademark belongs to Premier Jewelry Co Inc
  • The First Used in 1945
  • Not known how long this jewelry was manufactured but resources indicate it was not produced beyond the mid-1950’s
  • Marks
  • Mark is extremely rare
  • Claudette with a copyright symbol

Coro

  • As early as 1901 Coro jewelry is marked
  • CR stands for Emanuel Cohn and Gerald Rosenberg
  • 1978 Ceased production
  • Coro, Inc, in Canada was still operational in 1990<
  • Marks
  • Coro is most common and has been in use since 1919
  • Coro Craft mark was used since 1937 and was originally
  • Used on higher quality pieces
  • Corocraft was used after 1945
  • The Pegasus mark was used after WWII
  • Francois was used to market higher end costume jewelry
  • Vendome – used on a jewelry line started after 1944
  • Coro used many additional marks
  • Coro Craft in use since 1937
  • Coro originals
  • There are several other Coro marks

D

de Lillo Wm

  • William de Lillo was born in Belgian, and worked for Tiffany and Harry Winston in NY
  • In 1967 he joined up with Robert F. Clark the former head designer for Miriam Haskell to form the de Lillo creative team
  • Their work is of the highest quality and ingenious design, using the finest Swarovski crystal stones and beads
  • In 1976 De Lillo and Clark moved to France where they created jewelry for Nina Ricci, Schiaparelli, and jewelry for high society women
  • Currently they reside in Arizona where they are constructing sculptures

D’Orlan

  • In 1957 began operations in Toronto by Maurice Bradden
  • Braden had previously trained under French Jeweler Marcel Boucher
  • By early 1970s the D’Orlan jewelry brands were well distributed
  • In 1979 D’Orlan purchased the Marcel Bourcher company
  • In 1984 D’Orlan formed a partnership with the Nina Ricci enterprises of Paris
  • Still in operation in Toronto Canada
  • Marks
  • Mark after merger
  • Now signed d”Orlan including a design inventory number

Diamonbar

  • In 1907 began operation in Providence Rhode Island manufacturing costume jewelry
  • In 1931 ceased operation

E

Eisenberg

  • In 1914 they produced clothing
  • In 1930 began to market jewelry
  • In 1958 abandoned its clothing line and began producing exclusively jewelry
  • In 1977 Eisenberg became a part of Berns-Friedman
  • Early Esenberg jewelry was not marked
  • From late 1943 to mid 1948 they used sterling silver
  • Sterling pieces are highly collectible, especially the figurals
  • Marks
  • 1935 – 1945 Eisenberg Original
  • 1940s – Script letter E used alone or with Originals
  • 1943 to 1948 hallmarked STERLINGwith the block EISENBERG
  • 1945 to 1950 Block EISENBERG and block E
  • 1950’s EISENBERG on marker in small block letters
  • As early as 1935 – Script Eisenberg – First registered in 1981
  • 1941 to1958 – Eisenberg Ice in block letters
  • 1958 and 1970 – Jewelry was not usually marked
  • 1970s and later – Script Eisenberg Ice

F

Florenza

    • Began operation in 1937 under the name Dan Kasoff Inc, New York, NY as a manufacturing company
    • 1950 began production of jewelry
    • 1981 went out of business.

Francois

    • In 1933 < Coro introduced their French line called Francois Francois 1944 Francois was replaced with Vendome as Coro Courturier division

Freirich

    • Began operation in 1920 by Solomon Freirich when he bought Maison David, a hat and dress trim manufacturer
    • In France the name stayed as Maison David
    • In the USA the name changed to Freirich
    • In 1955 Solomon’s son Arthur joined the firm and increased costume jewelry production
    • In 1960s began signing their jewelry
    • In 1990 ceased operation
G

Grossé

  • In 1938 Henkel and Groose began operations
  • Grossé is the later mark for this German Company – The accent over the “e” was added for the benefit of the French who were not thrilled to be dealing with a German company after the war
  • In 1955 produced jewelry for Christian Dior

H

Stanley Hagler

  • In the late 1950s he began creating his jewelry designs
  • 1979 Mark Mercy joined the company as contributing designer
  • 1983 relocated to Florida. Mark Mercy followed and name changed to Stanley Hagler 1989 Ian St Gielar joined the firm as contributing designer
  • Hagler ceased to design 1993-1994 due to ill health – passed away in 1996
  • In 1993 two new companies emerged.Mark Mercy for M&M Designs and Ian St. Gielar under his own name
  • Hagler jewelry can be identified by elaborate hand work including hand wrapped colored seed beads and seed pearls. Jewelry set on Russian Gold plated filigrees with Swarovski crystal rhinestones and various colored cabochons<
  • Marks
  • STANLEY HAGLER – used from 1950’s to 1983
  • STANLEY HAGLER NYC used from 1983 to the present

Stanley Hagler

Miriam Haskell

  • 1924 began operation
  • Still in operation
  • Marks
  • Most pre-war jewelry is not signed
  • Since 1938 marks used Script “Miriam Haskell” inside an oval or block “Miriam Haskell” inside a crescent-shaped cartouche are marks used since 1938

Hobé

  • Hobe Cie began operations in 1930s in New York, founded by a French man
  • Sold only to upscale stores
  • 1940s’ Slogan “jewels of legendary splendor” were introduced in ads
  • Pieces made between 1935 and 1955 are the most collectible of his works
  • Still in operation
  • Marks
  • Signed Hobé
  • Hobé on an oval plaque © Hobé

Hollycraft

  • Operated fro 1948 to 1965 as Hollywood Jewelry Manufacturing Co., Inc in

J

J.J.

  • J.J. is the registered trademark of Jonette Jewelry Co. of East Providence, R.I
  • Founded in 1935 by Abraham Lisker as Providence Jewelry Co.
  • >Later changed the name to Lisker & Lisker Inc. when Abraham’s brother Nathan joined the company
  • Discontinued operations during WWII
  • Lisker reopened and renamed it Johnette Jewelry Co. J.J

Jomaz/Mazer.

  • Began operations in 1927 Jomaz/Mazer
  • In late 1970s went out of business
  • Mazer jewelry is very high quality. Andre Fleuridas designed much early 1950s jewelry and in the 1970s
  • Marks
  • Early jewelry is marked Mazer Bros
  • Later pieces are marked MAZER or JOMAZ

K

Kramer.

  • Began operation in 1943 Kramer or Kramer of New York
  • 1980 ceased operation around 1980
  • Produced both high and low end jewelry. They used top quality rhinestones
  • Early Kramer jewelry is sought after by many collectors
  • Marks
  • Kramer of NY
  • Kramer of NY City in the 1950’s
  • Kramer on an applied oval plaque
  • Kramer

Krementz.

  • Began operation in 1866 manufacturing mens jewelry, mainly collar buttons and cuff buttons and later tie clasps and cufflinks
  • Krementz and Lester families each owned 50%
  • 1936 the company split into two separate parts, with each family specializing
  • Lester & Co. took over manufacturing fine gold jewelry
  • Krementz & Co. made 10 karat and 14 karat gold jewelry their specialty
  • In the 1930’s when collar buttons were no longer in demand, they began making women’s jewelry which did not become popular until the 1950’s

L

Lane, Kenneth J

  • Began operation in 1963
  • His big, bold designs, attention to detail and the use of fine stones that he personally developed with his supplier in Germany were no doubt instrumental in his success
  • Marks
  • K.J.L. logo for the first 10 years of production

Lang

  • Began Operation in 1946 as Lang Jewelry Company in Providence RI
  • Marks
  • The STERLING hallmark is characterized by the letter ‘S’ denoted by a swan with a crown on its head

Lisner

  • Began operation in the early 1900’s as D. Lisner and Company in NYC
  • A good portion of their jewelry was produced in the 1950s
  • Quite a lot of their jewelry is similar to average Coro jewelry
  • The Richelieu line of jewelry is one of their best
  • Some Lisner jewelry is of higher quality using superior aurora borealis stones and others have colorful pastic/lucite cabochons adorned with rhinestones
  • In the late 1970’s they were called the Lisner-Richelieu Corporation
  • Currently they are called Lisner Corporation.
M

Mazer

  • 1927 Mazer Brothers was founded by Joseph Mazer and his brother Louis in in New York
  • In the 1930s Mazer Bros. best known designer Marcel Boucher opened his own company
  • In 1946 Joseph Mazer left Mazer Bros. to form Joseph J. Mazer and Co known as Jomaz
  • Louis Mazer stayed with Mazer Bros. until 1951
  • In 1951 the last jewelry collection was produced by Mazer
  • In the late 1970s it ceased operations
  • Mazer Bros. was recognized because of their innovative styles and exploration of new designs
  • Mazer manufactured high quality jewelry which sold at middle range price
  • The jewelry is highly collectable in todays market
  • The early 1950s jewelry was designed by Andre Fleuridas
  • Adolfo designed some of the 1970s pieces for the company
  • Marks
  • Mazer Bros on the earlier jewelry
  • Mazer or Jomaz on the later pieces

N

Napier

  • Began operation in 1875 when it was founded as Whitney and Rice in Attleboro Mass. as a manufacturer of silver products
  • In 1882 it was purchased by Carpenter and Bliss and the name changed to Carpenter and Bliss
  • It was then purchased by E.A. Bliss and Co., Inc
  • During the late 1880s it grew and expanded rapidly
  • In 1890 the company moved to Meriden CT
  • After WWI, the firm shifted emphasis from silver products to production of modern jewelry
  • In 1920 James Napier became president and the company name became Napier – Bliss Co
  • In 1922, the name was changed to Napier Company
  • James Napier ran the company from 1920 to 1960
  • Napier is still in business today and a major producer of costume jewelry
  • Their jewelry is simple, lacks glitter. The designs are modern and simple. Some of the metalwork has a sculpture look somewhat resembling Mexican and Scandinavian silverwork.
  • Today Napier jewelry is mass produced in large quantities and marketed though major department stores
  • Marks
  • Used several trademarks, but they all include the name Napier >

P

Panetta

  • In 1945 Panetta began operation, by Beneditto Panetta
  • Panetta was originally from Naples Italy where he worked as a platinum jeweler
  • He came to the USA and continued to work as a platinum jeweler in New York City
  • His two sons, Amadeo and Armand, were born in New York and were always involved with jewelry
  • After the war they started their own company
  • Panetta is a respected mark. Panetta was never cheap new. If it didn’t look ‘real’, it went back to the drawing board.
  • In the late 1980s the company was sold to one of their large Japanese clients
  • In 1995 it closed

Pell

  • Began operation in 1941 as The Pell Jewelry Company
  • Started by the four Gaita brothers, Anthony, William, Joseph, and Alfred
  • The company specializes in pave rhinestone broaches, earrings, necklaces, bracelets, and tiaras
  • Pell established working relationships with many companies such as Disney, the Miss America Organization, and Coro Products

Pennino

  • In the late 1920s Pennino Brothers began operation
  • Around 1961 it ceased operations
  • Pennino made use of top quality stones mounted in sterling silver or heavy gold plate
  • Pennino jewelry is highly collectible and because of its scarcity it rings bring high prices
  • Marks
  • PENNINO in script
  • PENNINO in script or sometimes with a Pat. Pen. Mark
  • It is possible that not all jewelry was marked

Polcini

  • 1911, Ralph Polcini, a goldsmith founded the company
  • After his death the children took over renaming the company Polcini
  • Polcini companies produced very good quality hand set jewelry
  • There designs were traditional and conservative
R

Richards, W.E. Company [WRE]

  • WRE operated in North Attleboro MA and dates back as early as 1902
  • Produced 10K gold scarf pins, pendants, links, brooches, rings, emblems

Robert

  • Began operation in 1942
  • Closed in 1979
  • Robert jewelry is often confused with Miriam Haskell
  • Marks
  • Original by Robert used from 1942 to 1979
  • Fashioncraft
  • Fashioncraft Robert used early 1940’s
  • Pinless
  • Robert – especially on earrings, designer Robert Levy

S

·  S.A.L./Swarovski

  • In 1977 Swarovski America, Ltd. started making their own jewelry
  • Swarovski America, Ltd. is now known as Swarovski Consumer Goods Ltd
  • Marks
  • The logo used initially was a flower mark, the edelweiss
  • The flower mark was not recognized by consumers as Swarovski, so the company changed the mark to S.A.L. which was placed on their jewelry until 1988
  • In 1988 the S.A.L. mark was replaced with the swan logo

Sandor

  • Began operation in
  • In 1972 it ceased operations
  • The company’s jewelry designs spanned a wide range of styles from figurals to dainty flowers

Schreiner

  • Henry Schreiner was a blacksmith in Bavaria Germany
  • In 1923 he came to the USA but there were few horses left in New York City, so he took a job at Con Edison, then in 1926/1927 he worked for a baker.
  • In 1927 Schreiner went to work for the Better shoe buckle company. He was very artistic and he loved doing work for the couture designers
  • In 1951 his daughter Terry and her husband, Ambros Albert, joined the business
  • In 1954 Schreiner died. Terry and Ambros continued running the business
  • In 1975.it ceased operations
  • The Schreiner company was known for its imaginative use of color. The stones were often set upside down, and they used unfoiled stones to enhance the colors
  • The Schreiner company never produced a commercial type of jewelry; it did only fine hand work and never mass-produced any pieces

Schiaparelli

  • Began operation in 1931
  • Ceased operations in 1973
  • Marks
  • Before 1949 not all marked
  • Schiaparelli lower case print used1949 and prior
  • Schiaparelli in block letters

T

Taylor & Company

  • Began operation between 1893 and 1909 by John N. Taylor, who was formerly with Krementz & Company
  • Last activity that could be traced was in 1931
  • Marks
  • Oversized T with 14 on one side and a K on the other

Trifari

  • Founded in 1910 by Gustavo Trifari and his uncle
  • Trifari was first known as Trifari and Trifari
  • When Gustavo’s uncle left a couple of years later the company was known as just Trifari
  • In 1917 Leo Krussman joined Trifari
  • In 1925, Carl Fishel joined the company as head of sales
  • The company was renamed Trifari, Krussman and Fishel and their hallmark became KTF
  • In early 1930 Afred Philippe joined the company as head designer for Trifari. His designs in the Art Deco period became very popular and his freedom to work with the less expensive materials in costume jewelry gave him the inspiration to create the large flower pins and the jewelry now known as fruit salad jewelry
  • Founders and sons of founders ran Trifari from 1910 to 1975
  • From 1975 to 1988 it operated as Hallmark Jewelry Co\
  • From 1988 to 1994 it operated as Crystal Brands
  • In late 1994 it was purchased by Chase Capital Partners, a Lattice Holding Co., a division of the Monet Group
  • In July of 2000 the Monet Group, was purchased by Liz Claiborne
  • Liz Claiborne moved operations to Puerto Rico soon after purchasing
  • Trifari, Mosell, and Marvella Jewelry are now off shore operations
  • Marks>
  • Jewels by Trifari with a crown over the “T” first used in early1920
  • Trifari Le Touquet used for sports jewelry since 1929
  • Parquet used for beach jewelry since 1929
  • Gainsborough first used in 1932
  • KTF first used in;1935
  • TRIFARI tm since 1937
  • Elongated Trifari used since 1937
  • Trifari printed in tall, slim version, crown silhouette above the “T used in the 1930s’ and 1940s
  • Elongated letters and different crown used 1940s and 1950s

V

Vendome

  • From 1944 to 1979 Vendome was in business
  • They operated as a subsidiary of Coro
  • Vendome was a high-quality line that succeeded Corocraft
  • Pieces were made with brilliant high-quality European stones and beads

Vogue

  • In 1936 Vogue Jewelry began operation, founded by Harold Shapiro and two other men
  • In 1962 the Shapiro left Vogue
  • It continue operations until the mid 1970’s
  • Marks
  • Vogue

W

Warner

  • There is very little information available on Warner Jewelry
  • Based on the designs and material use it is believed to have started operations in the 1950s by Joseph Warner
  • Continued operating until at least the early 1970s
  • Warner jewelry exhibits quality workmanship, superior materials and stones, often mounted on japanned metal setting
  • Marks
  • Warner
  • Not all Warner jewelry was marked

Weiss

  • In 1942 Weiss Company began operating in New York State
  • It was started by a former Coro employee Albert Weiss
  • The company flourished during the 1950s and1960s offering high quality costume jewelry with Austrian rhinestones of exceptional quality and clarity
  • Also known for his replicating black diamond jewelry
  • Weiss jewelry is highly collectable
  • Weiss manufactured some of the most beautiful rhinestone jewelry of the post WWII era
  • Marks
  • Tags may be marked A.W. Co. with the large central letter W in shape of a crown
  • Weiss Co
  • Weiss with copyright symbol